REFLECTIONS ON A SAMBURU VILLAGE
Posted on March 6, 2009 - Filed Under General News | Leave a Comment
Weve been living in this remote area for 7 years now so were used to a lot of the things that are a part of normal Samburu life. i.e. animals everywhere, animal poo everywhere, dirt, dust, drought, disease. Still, there were a few things I noticed this past weekend when we took our tent and spent the night in the village. Here are some of them.
We had originally planned to pitch our tent inside the school building theyve constructed up there, but one of the elders allowed it would be safer if we camped near his home. Our belongings would be safer and there would be less danger from elephants, which can be a problem in this forested area. His place has a large thorn fence around the perimeter and a gate made by placing a large cedar trunk across 2 posts. I assume its to deter the elephants while still allowing the livestock (and our truck) to enter.
The first issue was that the plastic tent stakes wouldnt go further than 2 inches into the rock hard, dry ground. So the mzee (elder man) took his panga (machete type knife) and fashioned one from a tree branch. It worked, so he made 5 more and Charlie pitched the tent. So, now its time to make chai and I give him the tea leaves, milk and sugar weve brought. He comes back pretty quickly and brings me the box of tea. Usually tea is purchased in a plastic packet. This had a packet in a box, overwrapped in cellophane. I actually had to remove the cellophane and open the box for him. Stunned. There was no way for me to find out why he needed the help as he doesnt speak Swahili any more than I speak Samburu. The next problem he brought to me was the carton of milk. Milk comes from a cow, after all, not a carton. I opened it for him. Soon we were all drinking really sweet chai from metal cups and trying, as usual, to keep the flies off them.
We sit in silence, drink our chai, pet the new lamb and take pictures of the kids. Later, its time for dinner and weve brought hot dogs. Theres never a time when youre alone in the village so now were offering hot dogs to the men sitting around the fire. Theyre not really sure they want them, but we assure them its beef so its okay. Samburu dont eat pork. They say they dont know why. They also dont eat fish, chicken, eggs or wild game. How hungry are they, you start to wonder? There are rabbits, pigeons, grouse and guinea fowl everywhere. I think the men refuse the things out of pride, but I bet any kid would eat them. Now its time for desserthomemade peanut butter cookies. They ate those without any hesitation until they were all gone. Tasted like honey, they said. Who made these? I raise my hand. Genius. I may not be able to haul 5 gallons of water on my back for 2 miles, but there is hope for the white woman after all, apparently.
And the children are hungry. They eat anything they are given without question and also every crumb that Joseph drops on the ground, whether trail mix, muffin, whatever. I watch the cutest little girl (the only one dressed properly) pick peanuts up out of the dirt and eat them one by one. Shes about 2 years old. Im not sure who her mother is. In the morning, one of the smaller kids appears without a stitch of clothing. He must be freezing. Everyone else has huddled around the glowing coals to ward off the morning chill. Joseph sidles up to me and says mom, that child is doing something bad, and I dont want to look, but its too hard. Cultural lesson follows. Again, I dont know where/who the mother is. She may be the one who went to town yesterday to sell tobacco to get money for food and didnt return. The children are waiting for her, they say. Thats because daddy isnt responsible for providing food for the children; mommy is.
Everyone loves our breakfast of pumpkin spice muffins. We start packing to leave. Before we go, we give away the rest of the water and food we brought and distribute some vitamins for the children. It takes a little while to communicate exactly what to do with them, although they readily accept them even before they understand.
We get in the car, taking the old man to town with us so he can look for his wife (the missing mother). The mans visiting brother is distraught that he cant go to town with him, but there isnt room. Hes mentally challenged and I guess they didnt explain to him what was happening, but rather, thought we could sneak away. Once he gets an explanation, he calms down and we go. As we start off, Charlie asks if I saw what he saw as we were leaving.One of the small children was holding a piece of cedar bark, dipping it in the dirt and then putting it in his mouth. Yes. I saw.
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